Wednesday, September 28, 2011

With Francis in Nepal


Trekking in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas is about stunning scenery. And, with almost all of the trek taking place above 12,000 feet, it's about challenging hiking. But it's also about exposure to a foreign culture, the Tibetan Buddhism of the Sherpa people.

The Sherpas, originally from Tibet, belong to the Nyingmapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. This sect emphasizes mysticism and -- contrary to most Westerners' concept of Buddhism -- has adopted many ceremonies, gods and demons from Bön, the pre-Buddhist religion of Tibet. Among the deities worshipped by the Sherpas are ones similar to the minor deities worshipped by the common people in ancient Rome and Greece -- local gods of mountains, streams, forests, and caves.

After a couple of days in Kathmandu (a predominantly Hindu city), we begin our actual trek on October 4 -- coincidentally, the date on which Christians honor the life of St. Francis of Assisi.

St. Francis was a fairly sophisticated man for his time and place, but his time and place were early thirteenth century Italy. I suspect, therefore, that he would have been appalled if he had ever encountered the religious practices of the Sherpas. And the dramatic representations of gods and demons in Khumbu monasteries would have seemed Satanic.

But Francis was also a strong believer in the brotherhood of all men, not merely of all Christians. He visited the Sultan of Egypt in 1219, in an attempt to convert the Sultan to Christianity. He did not succeed, but he was received warmly and is said to have left a very favorable personal impression, a lasting favorable impression not only of himself but of his Franciscan order. He embraced poverty and simplicity. He believed that nature was the "mirror of God." He called the animals, as well as humans, his brothers and sisters.

I suspect, therefore, that he would have found much to admire in the Sherpa people, and much to respect in the spiritual values of Tibetan Buddhism and the manner in which it affects the lives of its adherents -- although not, of course, in its actual beliefs and practices. He would have sensed his kinship with monasteries that pray for the happiness of "all sentient beings."

St. Francis never wavered in his devotion to Christianity, but he sought out the good in all people. I can easily imagine his joining us, trudging along the trail beside us, ever interested in the lives and scenes he saw about him. Perhaps surprising one of the local monks by sitting down beside him with his own begging bowl, enjoying together a simple meal of dal bhat.

I'll keep him in mind next Tuesday as I begin my trek.

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