Monday, March 25, 2013

Running like a leopard


Jack: What are your legs?
Archie: Springs. Steel springs.
Jack: What are they going to do?
Archie:  Hurl me down the track.
Jack:  How fast can you run?
Archie:  As fast as a leopard.
Jack:  How fast are you going to run?
Archie: As fast as a leopard!
Jack:  Then let's see you do it!
--Gallipoli (movie)

Seattle was sunny today, with temperatures in the high fifties.  Flowers and flowering trees were in bloom; spring was upon us.  And it was my birthday.  The signs were all auspicious.  I needed to run.  It's been two or three years since I last did any serious running, after an Achilles tendon strain in 2006 ended many years of regular running.

I had prepared for the arrival of this urge, and for this sort of spring day.  I had ordered new running shoes, which arrived Friday.  Today was the day for the test.

I'm no leopard.  It had been a while, as I say, since I'd run.  But I felt as leopard-like as I had any right to feel. Running fast, but not too fast.  Breathing hard, but not too hard.  Skimming through Interlaken Park, along a curvy lane that's closed to traffic in places, and infrequently trafficked in others.  Feeling feral.

Feral, perhaps, but not really feline.  No, rather than a leopard, I felt more like myself as a skinny pre-teen boy.  I always wore leather shoes to school -- not a school rule, but my mother's rule.  But, come summer vacation, we kids all got Keds.  Or some other brand of "tennis shoes."  We'd get 'em home, put 'em on, and run outside --  dancing across the lawns and sidewalks like wild maniacs.  The tennis shoes were like magic.  I felt I could run like the wind, jump like a gazelle. 

Frankly, I guess I really felt neither wind-like nor gazelle-like today.  Those years following the age of eleven have, in fact, taken something of a toll.  But everything's relative, right?  Compared to how I feel wearing my usual light hiking shoes, I felt light-footed as a ballet dancer. 

I've exhausted my fund of similes.  Let's just say that running in new running shoes is exhilarating.  It brings back those joys of being eleven years old at the very beginning of summer vacation -- joys that, in retrospect, are wasted on an eleven-year-old.

Now, I just have to remind myself every two or three days how good the run will feel once I start running.  If only my memories of today's run are strong enough to trump my usual inertia ...

Updates as events warrant.

Saturday, March 23, 2013

Putting it in perspective


Some of us can remember the old pull-down World maps at the front of our classrooms, maps on which half the countries were colored pink.  Those pink lands made up the British Empire.

Empires aren't fashionable these days -- except, perhaps, with neo-cons like Dick Cheney -- but the British Empire has receded far enough into history to exert a nostalgic pull on our affections.  We think of explorers (like Dr. Livingston) opening up new areas in Africa and Asia.  We visualize military officers crisply dressed in red-coated uniforms, pioneer families in Canada and Australia, the invincible British fleet, Indian "durbars" presided over by Viceroys -- and, more generally, the entire Victorian aristocratic backdrop of boys' schools, overstuffed furniture, leather books, long letters home from the colonies, and London itself as the center of civilization.

My mind wanders thusly because I have just finished reading Unfinished Empire: The Global Expansion of Britain, a new book by Oxford historian John Darwin.   In one readable volume, Dawson tells us all we ever thought we wanted to know about the British Empire -- but it's also made me want to learn even more.

As an American schoolboy, I was taught a specific point of view with respect to what we call the American Revolution.  Indoctrination in a national religion, I suppose.  Even in college, when I took a course analyzing the events leading up to 1776 from a nationally known expert in the field, the facts were studied in far greater detail, but their worldwide context was not notably broadened.  In all my course work, at whatever level, it was assumed that American Independence was a central event in world history. 

Professor Darwin's history is taught from a Briton's point of view.  It is not obviously biased, anymore than my college course was obvously biased.  But from Britain's viewpoint, the battle against the American colonists was merely one aspect of a dangerous period in British history.  After Britain's unexpected territorial gains at the Peace of Paris (1763), ending the Seven Years War with France, Spain, and Austria (which we parochially describe as the "French and Indian War"), she found herself overextended overseas, and faced with potentially dangerous forces on the European continent.  Desperate for money, Britain imposed the notorious Stamp Tax on the American colonies, forcing us to help pay for the British troops that had protected us against the French -- a tax that led to the Declaration of Independence.

While trying to reimpose order in the colonies by blockading its shipping, the British faced a renewed threat from France, Spain, and Holland.  These nations were joined by Russia in 1780, thus including virtually all of Europe in a demand that the British blockade against the colonies not affect neutral shipping. Britain's navy was greatly outnumbered by those of the allied nations, and the British Isles themselves were threatened.

[I]n 1782, [Britain] regained control of the Atlantic.  But for the American war, it was too little too late.  In the critical phase when its Atlantic lifeline was cut, Cornwallis's army, their main American strike-force, was squeezed into surrender at Yorktown [1781].  With no will to go on, the British went to the conference table desperate to break up the coalition against them.  Conceding American independence was the only sure way to end the colonies' alliance with France -- the worst of all worlds -- and preserve their commercial connection with Britain.

My American education never suppressed knowledge of the historical context in which independence occurred.  But we were taught history as perceived by our forebears living in Massachusetts and Virginia, for whom the European balance of power was of merely incidental interest -- not history as it might have been perceived by an interested Martian hovering overhead.  Darwin is no Martian, but his perception as an historian whose fascination lies with the development of the entire British Empire adds the necessary context.  From Britain's point of view, London had bent over backwards trying to placate the American colonists, at least insofar as possible without surrendering whatever advantage was derived from the colonies' status as imperial possessions.

The American war is but a minor theme in Dawson's story, a prelude to the later development of what now usually comes to mind when we hear the term, "British Empire" -- an amazing story of commercial and military success for which Britain's victories at Trafalgar (1805) and Waterloo (1815) were the necessary but not sufficient conditions.  But lessons learned in dealing with the American colonies affected Britain's policies in dealing with future colonies, especially those that Dawson calls "settler societies" -- Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa.  And the chapters dealing with India -- the jewel in the Crown -- could be read alone as a fascinating cautionary tale, a mixture of avarice and nobility, cruelty and compassion, recklessness and caution.

How the Empire developed after 1815 -- primarily as a means to protect  British commercial investment and exploitation -- and how a small island parlayed an early industrial revolution, supported by large domestic reserves of coal, into one of the largest and most successful empires, commerical, financial and governmental, the world has ever seen, is the primary story of Dawson's book.  As is the sobering -- to us on this side of the pond -- coda illustrating how Britain fell from world domination within not much more than a generation.

As an American, I like to recall the fable of the blind pygmies trying to understand their first encounter with an elephant.  Our history classes, perhaps, have taught us to inspect carefully the elephant's leg and conclude that an elephant is a form of hairy-barked tree.  Dawson's book shows us the entire beast.

Wednesday, March 20, 2013

Sixth anniversary


Six years ago today, I published my first blog post.  A boy on a haystack, wondering what to write about.  So young.  So naive.

Now, here we are.  Six years later, with 577 published posts under my belt (plus one that I published and later depublished, because I was uncomfortable with the sort of attention it was receiving!).

It's been fun.  In general, I've tried to dash off roughly a couple of posts a week.  Sometimes I write with great enthusiasm; other times, I really can't think of much to say.  But it all averages out.

In case you're curious, over the past couple of years, I've been averaging about two thousand hits per month -- from virtually every nation in the world -- which surprises me a bit.   Some hits merely represent surfers attracted to a particular post's photo, but that's ok, too.   No matter what they're seeking, it's fun to realize that readers in Iraq, Sri Lanka, Tunisia and Kazakhstan are among those looking at my blog, together with the more expected readers from the U.S., the U.K., Russia, India, Canada and Germany (the top six sources of my readership).

I fully expect to be celebrating a seventh anniversary a year from now, with another ninety or a hundred posts added to my total.  Thanks for checking in occasionally.

Monday, March 18, 2013

Talking to your opponents


The United States has imposed sanctions on Cuba for over 52 years.  So far as I can tell, the sanctions have accomplished nothing, other than condemn the Cuban people to poverty.  What were they intended to accomplish?  Does anyone remember?  Does anyone have any idea of what it would take -- what Cuba would have to do -- to end the sanctions?

I doubt it.  Whatever our original objectives, if  any were ever actually formulated, the winning of Cuban-American votes in Florida has been the only real concern for administration after administration, both Democratic and Republican.

Let's not repeat the Cuban fiasco in Iran.

In an Op-Ed article in today's New York Times, Professor Vali Nasr1 suggests that we may have reached an optimum time at which to negotiate an agreement with the Iranian government.  He argues that the gradual tightening of sanctions to date has had the desired effect, that the Iranians are ready to deal, and that we should conduct serious negotiations with the objective of restricting Iran's ability to enrich uranium to weapons grade level, while permitting lower grade enrichment for domestic use in nuclear power plants.

As I understand our stated objectives, such a deal would achieve those objectives.   Professor Nasr fears, however, as do I, that, instead, we intend to continue tightening sanctions to force a total "surrender" on the part of the Iranian government.  Or, I might add, a "regime change," analogous to our probable half-century hopes, however vague, that we might force Fidel Castro out of office.

As Nasr notes, sanctions are more popular than serious negotiations with American voters.  But we expect our govenment to conduct foreign affairs with some degree of sophistication beyond that of the voting public, while still remaining democratically responsible to that public.  This expectation requires a certain amount of tightrope balancing, I agree.  But it is an expectation strongly supported by that conservative icon, Henry Kissinger.  And we might look at the history of the British Foreign Office, whose record, while not perfect, has demonstrated greater professionalism -- on average -- than has that of our own State Department.

Iran is not Cuba.  Ruining Cuba for half a century harmed only the Cubans.  Ruining Iran -- either by sanctions or by use of force -- will destabilize the largest, most modern, and most sophisticated Islamic nation in the Middle East (except, possibly, Turkey), a nation that has its own security concerns relative to most of its Islamic neighbors, arising out of Iran's "heretical" Shi'ite faith.  And, we need to keep in mind that these security concerns have been intensified by an unfortunate history of past American actions, as in the Iraq-Iran war of 1980-88. 

Successful negotiations require (1) knowing precisely your own objectives; (2) understanding the probable primary objectives of the other party; and (3) understanding the hopes and fears that may affect the rationality of the decision-making of the other party.  I'm not confident that those actually in charge of American foreign policy -- under either the Obama or earlier administrations -- have a good conscious grasp on any of these considerations.

As Nasr suggests:

And rather than offering only vague promises that serious concessions might be rewarded someday by dropping all the sanctions as a package, Washington should offer to do away with specific sanctions, piece by piece, in exchange for specific Iranian concessions.  In that way, both sides might begin dismantling the most dangerous aspects of Iran's nuclear program in incremental, verifiable ways.

Iran has legitimate security concerns.  Iran has legitimate economic ambitions to develop sources of nuclear energy.  Iran may or may not have, or have had, ambitions to develop a nuclear military capacity for either offensive or defensive purposes.  We need to untangle these various goals in our own mind, and find a solution that permits Iran to accomplish its legitimate objectives in ways short of becoming a nuclear military power.
---------------------------

1Vali Reza Nasr is Dean of the Johns Hopkins School of Advanced International Studies, and a member of the State Department's Foreign Affairs Policy Board.

Saturday, March 16, 2013

Footloose and fancy free -- II


American University, Beirut

What the heck -- I'm still not feeling original.  Here's the final entry in my journal, from unedited longhand scribblings.  As you'll see, the journal ends with my first day in Beirut -- with maybe the most interesting week of the trip still to come. 

Maybe I ran out of authorial steam.  Maybe I was just too busy staying fed, housed and out of jail.  (Not a figure of speech -- I was arrested during a one-day sidetrip to Damascus, for taking photos that were unflattering to the proud people and nation of Syria.)  

Leaving Beirut several days later, I took the bus to Istanbul -- a wonderful city that, after my visit to Syria and Lebanon, seemed quite European.  I spent several days there before flying to Rome and continuing by train to Amsterdam, where my charter flight back to Seattle awaited me.


Thursday, August 13, 1970

Events happened quickly.  Arriving in Limassol involved an enormous amount of hassle at immigration -- the formalities taking place before we were allowed to disembark.  Everyone complained, even the usually unflappable British.  You're aware that Cyprus isn't really prepared for mass tourism in any way similar to Greece.  Almost everyone on the ship was either Greek or Cypriot, or a Britisher on vacation or visiting friends -- and the British were a very small minority.

Found a travel agent -- Scottish girl, six years in Cyprus -- and discovered that there would be no ship to Beirut for six days.  So on the spur of the moment, decided on a flight.  She got me my reservation -- cost about £9½ -- and put me in a shared taxi to Nicosia, after buying me a Coke.

Interesting ride -- very hot, even the wind.  Same Mediterranean type surroundings, but a bit lusher near the coast.  Amazed at how many road signs were in English -- especially the "dining and dancing" variety.  Could see that the British had been entertaining themselves on Cyprus for a long time.  Passed several armed U.N. checkpoints, but no one seemed to pay them any heed.

Arrived at Nicosia Airport with about a half-hour to spare -- actually, though, we left late -- and went quickly through customs again and filled out a couple of postcards.  I needed some proof I'd actually been there.  Then, before I knew it, we were off -- sat next to a Jordanian teenager on an M.E.A. flight -- many English.  Just had time to eat some very sugary -- but surprisingly good -- candies and drink a glass of orange juice -- i.e., 35 minutes -- and we were landing in Beirut.

Met a couple girls at the airport -- American -- whose fathers worked  at the American University.  They filled me in, as we waited in lines, on various tips for survival in Lebanon.  Took a cab directly to the YMCA -- LL.7 [seven Lebanese pounds, or "lire"] -- and here I am.

Well -- it's something else, all right.  I'm not sure yet quite what generalizations I could make.  In many ways, it's the most Americanized place I've been, not excluding Amsterdam -- especially here in the university district.  Bookstores carrying many of the same texts as at home, hamburger stands with milk shakes, banana splits, pizza -- the whole all-American bit.  Uncle Sam's Restaurant is practically an inexpensive Denny's.  Had fried eggs this morning, believe it or not.  Why live European when I'm no longer in Europe?

On the other hand, the Eastern influence is very marked.  Downtown, you run into men in fezes, in Arab head dresses, in whole Arab gowns, in Turkish type clothes, stocking caps.  Women often in mid-calf peasant dresses with shawls over their heads.  One woman I've seen in complete veil -- couldn't even see her eyes.  Most, of course, are in Western dress -- very like Italy and Greece.  But in the downtown market area, this majority becomes rather slim, if it exists.

Just about every sign that you'd be interested in is in Arabic and English, or sometimes French.  Even the license plates are biliteral.

The markets are fantastic.  Everything imaginable for sale.  Meat carcasses hanging like skeletons, partially de-fleshed.  Fruit juice stands, packed with all kinds of fruits, and especially carrots.  Beirut must be the home of the Waring blender.  Passed one café and found it filled with grizzled old men smoking their water pipes -- tobacco I trust.

One of the guys in the dorm room is French, but speaks good English.  He motored all over the Middle East, including Iran and Iraq.  He is very down on Beirut -- thinks it is completely uninteresting.  And doesn't care for the allegedly money-hungry attitude of the natives.  I mentioned, "There seem to be a lot of TV antennas around here."  "Yeah, but it's not like in Europe or America.  The Lebanese would rather sip coffee and talk."  "Well, that's good."  "Yes, that's good -- but what do they talk about?  I don't know any Arabic, but when I listen to their conversations, all I hear is 'lire, lire, lire'!"
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Ok, I promise no more self-quotations.  My next post, whenever it arrives, will be an original essay.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Footloose and fancy free


Acropolis at Lindos

Last month, I published a post discussing Durrell's memoir of his days on the island of Rhodes, as part of the British occupation forces in 1945: "Reflections on a Marine Venus."  I mentioned that I myself had first visited Rhodes as a young vagabond, backpacking around the Eastern Mediterranean. I was a kid with no planned itinerary and six weeks to kill before my return flight. 

Today, I ran across my journal of those travels.  Not having any ideas for a more interesting original post, I thought I'd give you an excerpt from my now-ancient journal -- a few lines describing some of my initial impressions of Rhodes, written at a time when I was somewhat adrift, uncertain, and apprehensive about my future life and career.

Self-plagiarism!

Saturday, August 8, 1970

The entry into Rhodes harbor on Thursday was extremely impressive, the Palace looming in the background, and the three wiindmills, the bandshell, the white agora, and various Moorish-looking buildings in the foreground.  Hiked in front of the Old City into the Mandraki, and followed the signs to the tourist office.  Got the address of a hotel with bath for 64 drx [drachmas][about $2] .  Had to carry my pack clear back to the other side of town, and then couldn't find the hotel.  Kept askiing for "HO-TEL CON-GO" from passers-by, and eventurally located it -- hot, thirsty, and exhausted.  Oh, let me tell you, there are times when reservations at the Hilton sound appealing.  But there are compensations.

Spent the afternoon just wandering around sans guidebook, getting a feeling for the area, taking some random pictures. Had moussaka and salad dinner on the waterfront, then went to see "The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie" (!) (with Greek subtitles).

Next day decided to switch to the youth hostel, which involved some more searching.  Finally got my gear transferred and 12 drx a night paid.  The manager speaks Italian and was delighted to be able to converse with me.  She thought I must be from California -- evidently mistook me for a paesano.  [ed. note 2013:  yeah, right!]

Went over the sights more carefully this time.  Palace of the Grand Master, the Hospital (now museum -- very impressive building; I really got a feeling of the history from it).  Spent siesta period on the beach, stretched out on the sand letting the breezes blow over me.  At one café, I ran into the Dutch and German guys I had met on the boat to Mykonos -- funny how often something like that happens.

When I came back to the hostel, I met the guy in the bunk below mine -- he's from Dallas.  We had dinner together and prowled through some of the shops in the Old City. ...  Ed had just gotten back from a one-day excursion to Marmara, Turkey, where he'd spent $100 [ed. 2013: about $600 in today's dollars!] on various gifts -- especially sheepskin coats.

This morning I was up at 7, had breakfast and killed time sitting on the breakwater, staring at the city, trying to impress it indelibly on my mind.  At 9, the bus left for Lindos, I aboard it.   A magnificent drive, through rugged Old West scenery and over evergreen-covered hills with glimpses of the sea from time to time.  Lindos is a beautiful place.  ...  I began the climb up to the Acropolis.  Someone said the Greek ruins were a temple to Apollo [ed. 2013: actually, Athena], which seems wholly approperiate, considering the beauty and sunniness of the location, but I unfortunately didn't have a guidebook.  Very impressive Doric columns, some leaning and looking as though they had been rather shakily reconstructed -- just a guess.  Surrounding the temple are fortifications of the same style as those here in [the city of] Rhodes, which seemed to make the flat-topped rock impregnable.

The view was breathtaking.  Wandered all around, looking off in many directions.  Finally, sat on a wall and looked down on the deep blue sea, light shimmering in bright specks on the water, the gold cliffs dropping sheer to the sea, mottled with dark shadows.  I must have sat there at least half an hour, mulling over life.  I decided that if I could be sitting in this place, at this time of my life, seeing what I did, feeling what I did, the kind of person that I am -- then I had managed to blunder into a lot of right decisions at various places in my life, and I had no regrets, whatever the future might hold.

Pretty smug, huh?
--------------------------------
A year later, I found myself starting law school.  It was all downhill from that point on!

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Tax time as recreation


Passive activity income does not include the following.
**Income from an activity that is not a passive activity.

--IRS instructions for Form 8582


Devoted readers of this publication may find it hard it to believe that its suave and erudite author once dabbled in the mystic arts of higher math -- joyfully dirtying his hands with complex variables, double and triple integrals, Laplace transforms and Euler functions.

Nothing remains of this arcane knowledge, alas -- merely memories of terms -- but my early fascination with numbers may help explain something about me today:  to wit, the reason I do my own taxes and actually enjoy it.

I would never give my finances to H&R Block, let alone to a more sophisticated CPA.  Not just because I'm too cheap -- as indeed I am -- but because I myself enjoy untangling the cunning little webs that the IRS weaves throughout its volumes of forms and publications, all designed to "help" us through the tax-paying process.

I enjoy not only the intellectual challenge of trying to understand exactly what the IRS has in mind by its labyrinthine interpretations of the equally labyrinthine tax code, but also the opportunity to annually puzzle over just what has been happening during the previous year to Rainier96's Ship of Finance as she glided through the treacherous Seas of Insolvency in perpetual quest of the Hidden Isles of Unlimited Liquidity. 

I don't mind paying a bit more in taxes if I unexpectedly discover that I'm -- as a friend so strikingly emailed me this week -- "rolling in dough and swimming in bucks like Scrooge McDuck."  Such a happy denouement, unfortunately, rarely presents itself, but sometimes I do find myself a bit less destitute than anticipated, always a cause for rejoicing.

So I spent the better part of six hours yesterday preparing a gawd-awful number of forms.  (Over my lifetime, I've so conducted my affairs that the complexity of my tax reporting today is totally disproportionate to any amount of taxes conceivably at risk.)  While six hours (essentially working for the government at no pay) might bother some -- a bit of that time, of course, was spent trying to find documents I knew I had somewhere, but couldn't quite seem to locate -- my own struggles during those six hours were fun. More challenging and the results more satisfying than if I'd sat on a park bench doing New York Times crossword puzzles.

And so.  Voilá!  My forms are all typed out: neat, tidy, and elegant.  I'm so pleased. So proud!

De gustibus non est disputandum, right?

And after all -- I do only do it once a year. 

Friday, March 1, 2013

Tear down this Wall!


Tiny section of the
"Great Wall" along
Montlake Boulevard 
"Something there is that doesn't love a wall ..."
--Robert Frost

"Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall!"    
--Ronald Reagan

Nearly every day, I walk down Montlake Boulevard from the Montlake Bridge as far as the Hec Edmondson basketball pavilion, before crossing over to the campus proper.  Since 2008, each such walk has taken me, for most of that distance, alongside a construction wall. 

The wall separates me from the on-going construction of the UW light rail terminal.  The wall -- although merely a chain-link fence layered with plastic sheeting -- is sufficient to totally obstruct my view of whatever interesting activities are occurring on the other side.

The station won't be open until 2016.  Presumably, the wall will continue blocking views until then.

If my safety were the reason for the wall, I wouldn't object.  But the wall, while sufficient to keep me from wandering into the site, hardly seems substantial enough to protect me on the sidewalk from any dangerous activities within. Why not simply a chain link fence? 

At first, the wall incorporated a couple of transparent plastic windows through which one could get a somewhat awkward glance at some of the construction activity.  Those windows have since disappeared.

Contiguous with the light rail "wall," and continuing from the light rail project to Hec Ed, is the on-going construction of the new Husky Stadium.  Here there is also a protective fence, covered with canvas.  But you can see through gaps in the canvas.  Furthermore, there are large gaps in the wall, allowing for vehicle access, where I can very nicely watch the rapid progress on the stadium, at least insofar as visible from the sidewalk. 

But who knows what goes on behind the transit "Great Wall," as its graphics call itself.  Infant sacrifices?  Worship of heathen gods?  Construction workers lying in the sun instead of working?  In the absence of known data, my brain grinds away fitfully, spinning out its absurd fantasies.

Don't get me wrong.  I love rapid transit.  I love light rail.  I'm eagerly awaiting the arrival of trains in the university district.  But eight years is a long time for a large expanse of activity to be walled off from view, for no apparent reason.

So I plead. Nay, demand: Mr. Whoever, tear down this wall!  (Or at least puncture some more windows in it. Please?)