I've changed over the years. So has England!
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York - Sutton Bank
Weather: Cloudy to clearing
(Necessarily written a day late.) Took the bus [from the youth hostel] into town and found a bike shop that rented me a bike for a week for 10s. Started pedaling west, and the riding went quite easily, until I had a flat. Had it repaired at Boroughbridge and ate a couple of ham sandwiches and a coke. Rode on to Ripon, and from there a few miles to beautiful Fountains Abbey. It was very impressive, and I couldn't help thinking of the monks who for four centuries had lived their lives there, and how they never dreamed it would fall into ruins the way it has. Saw actual charters and documents of Dissolution. All of a sudden I learned that the hostel I was going to (Ellington) was closed tonight for warden's rest. So I started east for the Yorkshire moors. I had a good wind, and all went well until past Thirsk, where I hit the Sutton bank -- a one in four grade! At the top, it was beautiful. Rolling moorland with small Christmas tree size firs and hemlocks in places. It was about sunset by now so I hid my bike, put pajama bottoms on under my pants, used the top as a scarf, and lay down and tried to go to sleep.
Wednesday, 21 June
Sutton Bank - Scarborough
Weather: Fair
What a horrible night. It was near-frost, damp; my feet were almost dead and my seat and knees were always cold. It didn't seem like I slept at all, but I must have, because the night finally ended -- fortunately, the shortest of the year! I got going before 5 and breezed (brr!) into Helmsley at 5:30. This was a fascinating city, especially quiet in the early morning sun. Quaint town square surrounded by inns, and nearby a ruined castle. Kirkby Moorside's main asset was its name. I was looking for breakfast by now, and finally located a place east of Kirkby Moorside where a little lady served me in what was like a private dining room to cereal, eggs, bacon, toast, and tea. Wonderful, after my ordeal. In spite of bad circumstances, all my pre-breakfast fast cycling was quite interesting -- the country is at its finest at that time. I arrived here at 11:30 a.m. -- my day's driving over with soon! Scarborough is a glorified Seaside [Oregon]. Just full of people, concessions, rides, parks, stores, etc. It's really quite fascinating, as are all the people here. (Englishmen are quite white in their bathing suits.) I lay on the beach, read, and ate and drank way too much ice cream and pop. Bought Wuthering Heights to put me in the right mood for moors!
Thursday, 22 June
Scarborough - Bridlington
Weather: Fair but windy
Left Scarborough and easily pedaled the less than 20 miles to Bridlington. If I thought Scarborough was a huge Coney Island, it was only because I hadn't seen Bridlington! Endless cafes, refreshment stands, penny arcades (with slot machines -- for 1d.), a bowling green, maze-golf, carnival rides, kiddie-land, etc. etc. But none of the green shady streets of Scarborough. After arriving, I bought cone after cone, drink after drink. My body seemed to crave them -- perhaps I was thirsty! I sat down on the sand, shading my legs from the sun, and read Wuthering Heights while licking ice cream cones! After a bit of hunting, I found the Youth Hostel about 5. I then found dinner at a restaurant -- 2 eggs, bacon, 2 toasts, and a coke -- all for 4s. And it was delicious! Afterward I wandered around the arcades until about 8, when I came back to the hostel. They have a very cozy common room, and a library where I found Betty MacDonald's "The Plague and I" and read it until I realized the place was very quiet -- and sneaked myself into bed in the dark room!
Friday, 23 June
Bridlington (Flamborough)
Weather: Cloudy/sunny -- strong winds
Got up and headed right straight for Flamborough Head. By walking along the beach at the bottom of the cliffs, I was able to go the entire distance. The beach, at first sandy, soon became composed of large white rocks -- whose identity I wondered idly about until I suddenly realized I was walking on chalk. The beach went in and out, making nice little coves along the way -- I could really see how pirates used to use them. After a couple of hours, I began to notice that my legs were getting pink, and wondered about the sun (magnified by the bright white rocks). I realized there was no way to get from the beach to the cliffs-- but finally found a rope someone had left and pulled myself up to where a slope began. Then I followed a path along the top of the cliff to the picturesque lighthouse, and looked down to the rugged rocks below. I also visited a signal tower -- one of a chain to warn of invasions. This one kept its eye on Bridlington, ready to signal if it did. Finally, after a rest I began the long walk back. I finished the day on the beach (legs covered!) and in the evening saw a couple of British pictures.
Saturday, 24 June
Bridlington - York
Weather: Sunny -- very windy
Today, I started with the bright hope of riding the 35 miles or so to York. This wouldn't have been difficult if I hadn't run into west winds of about 25 mph. I struggled and puffed for eleven miles, but when I found myself getting exhausted as I pedaled down a long hill, I gave up. I turned around, coasted back uphill, and almost flew back to Bridlington. I took a train then, with my bike, back to York. Cowardly, but so much easier! York was again a joy to behold and this time I knew the layout fairly well. I almost panicked, however, when I remembered I had to cash a travelers check, and all the banks were closed. After trying at the station, and at a hotel, I finally got a department store to do it. After a Wimpy dinner, I revisited the Minster, while they were playing the huge organ. Such huge rumbling notes, nothing like our little U.S. church organs, I also took a look at the remains of the old abbey in a park there -- nothing really to look at.
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From York, I returned to London, and then went on by train to visit Salisbury (and Stonehenge) and Winchester. I returned to London, stayed two nights in Canterbury, and left England by ferry on my way back to Florence on June 30.
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