War in Kashmir?

Srinagar in peaceful times

Three more weeks until I fly to India.  At least, that's the plan.  After a day or so in Delhi, the remainder of my visit will be in areas along the Pakistan border -- Dharamsala, just south of Kashmir in Himachel Pradesh; Amritsar in Punjab, virtually on the border with Pakistan; and Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir, and its surrounding areas.

Meanwhile, the war drums beat ever louder.  Pakistani terrorists attacked Indian security personnel last week.  India believes the attack was authorized by the Pakistani government, and sent planes into Pakistan.  Pakistan sent planes into India.  An Indian plane was shot down in Pakistan territory, and its pilot taken captive. 

The Indian people cry for revenge, and their government led by Hindu nationalists at least pretends to give it to them.  The Pakistan government itself, for a change, appears to be acting in a more restrained and adult manner.

Civil defense goes on in Indian-controlled Kashmir.  The government is building 14,000 bunkers for local families to hide out in during bombing and artillery fights.  Non-Kashmiris who can get out are getting out, and tourism is at a standstill.

JAMMU, India — Migrant workers are fleeing India's northern state of Jammu and Kashmir and tourist arrivals have fallen to a trickle amid an escalating conflict with Pakistan, badly hurting businesses in the Himalayan region known for its scenic beauty and fruit harvests.

Hundreds of taxis stood idle at the main railway station of Jammu, the winter capital of the state, …

--New York Times (my bold face)

Local airports have been closed, and migrants are fleeing by train.  Pakistan has closed its airspace.  Thai Airways canceled more than a dozen flights to Europe, because their routes passed through Pakistan air space.  Other airlines are re-routing flights to avoid Pakistan.

 

Twitter accounts in the two countries have reportedly been dominated by war hawks from both countries.

 

So far, I've received no indication that my trip will be canceled.  Much of our travel is by road, but longer stretches are by air.  On March 24, we fly from Delhi to Dharamsala -- not in Kashmir, but close to its border.  On March 28, we fly from Amritsar, on the Punjab border with Pakistan, to Srinagar in Kashmir.  And on April 2, we fly from Srinagar back to Delhi.  All these flights are either over Kashmir, or near the border with Pakistan, or both.  Will airspace on the Indian side of the border be closed by the end of the month?  Will it be safe?

 

I don't know, but all three of the above airports, as well as others in the area, were shut down by Indian authorities earlier today.  The order was reportedly withdrawn hours afterwards.

 

Ah, we live in interesting times, as the Chinese curse would have it.  I can do nothing but sit and chew my fingernails.  I suspect our trip's organizers are doing the same.  

 

May clear heads prevail.   But do they ever?