Friday, September 4, 2009

To Annapurna


Labor Day approaches. Somehow we've once again reached, all too speedily, the end of another summer. As always, the change of seasons, viewed metaphorically as I do most things, awakens my usual morbid reflections on mortality. Falling leaves; chill in the air; hibernation; snow and cold looming ahead; frozen sparrows plummeting from the sky; death, decay and desolation. All of that good stuff.

This year, however, anticipation of a timely trip to the Mysterious East keeps my spirits buoyed and my thoughts warm and summery. On September 29, I'll depart Seattle on the incredibly long journey to Kathmandu, Nepal.

Pascal and I will trek for two weeks, climbing up into the "Annapurna Sanctuary," a glacial basin (13,430 ft.) deep in the Himalayas which climbers use as their base camp for the ascent of Annapurna. From the base camp, we'll be able to view at least six surrounding peaks over 23,000 feet, including Annapurna I (at 26,545 ft., the world's tenth highest mountain). One of the peaks guarding the only entrance to the basin -- Machapuchare -- is believed to be the home of the god Shiva, and the sanctuary itself was long believed to hold gold and other treasures left there by the Nagas (malicious serpent gods in Hindu tradition). Until recently, the local people prohibited any woman from entering the sanctuary, or anyone at all from bringing in eggs or meat.

Since our group of nine trekkers includes six women, this prohibition, if still enforced, might have been problematic.

This will not be a difficult trek, climbing to only 13,500 feet over a period of five days, beginning from the town of Pokhara at about 3,500 feet. I can't say my training has been really adequate, however, due in part to the disruption caused by the great cinematic production that occupied a substantial part of my summer in one way or another. But even if I hike more slowly than I'd like, I expect to enjoy fully my exposure to fantastic Himalayan scenery and the fascinating local Tibetan Buddhist culture.

Pascal has joined me on a number of other treks, most recently on a more ambitious trek to the Ladakh area of northern India in 2005. He was a mere college freshman, but even then a worthily argumentative sort. He has since graduated in economics from UBC (including six months "study" (read "beer drinking") at the University of Melbourne), and I'm sure we'll enjoy matching wits as we hike.

I expect to encounter neither Nagas nor gold, but it's nevertheless a trek I'm eagerly anticipating. I'll report back upon my return. I can start worrying about winter then -- until then, the sun will continue to shine warmly upon my soul!

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